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Professionnal

 

How to build a boat deck

Equipment

1. Teak deck slats 1. Screwdriver with Torx end cap 1. Drill (inserting pilot bit and plugs adapted to the screw)
2. TDS FFE200 epoxy glue 2. Flat seam sander and TDS seam sander 2. Belt sander & disc sander
3. Slotted countersunk head self tapping screws and washers - stainless steel A4 3. TDS reefing hook 3. Jigsaw in opposed teeth position & miter saw
4. Teak inserts    
5. Caulking sealant TDS SIS 440    
6. TDS bond breaker tape (3,5 or 5mm wide)    
7. Space and bending block Fix Deck    
8. Accetone, paper towel, bin bags    

 

Materials


The Burmese teak is bonded to the deck with an epoxy FFE 200, flexible and easy to sand, which is also used for fairing (leveling, filling screw holes, etc).
Make sure all necessary repairs to the deck structure are finished before applying the paneling.
Our slats are available in several thicknesses of 6, 8, 10, 12 and 15mm, and we generally sell them 30% flat sawn and 70% decking (few section in premuim 100% decking)
The slats width may be contained between 30 and 60mm, and you have the choice between smooth four sides, two-rabbet or z system slats. Bending should be done with 2500mm long slats minimum.

 

Instructions


1. First, remove all chandlery (screw-hole buttons, stanchion, mainsheet traveler track, etc...) in order to let the work area clean and ready-to-use.


2. Sand and abrade the bonding surface with 80 or 60 grit sand paper. Clean sand dust and wipe out the bonding area with acetone on paper towel 30 minutes before applying the slats.
This will help to improve the penetration of epoxy by removing natural oil from teakwood.  (On steel or aluminium, it is preferable to sanding or sandblasting and use a primer AWLGRIP)


3. Place the first set of slats without bonding and start from the bow. Then mark the position of the edges.
If you use 2-rabbet slats, make sure to drill pre-holes in the edges with an inserting pilot bit (4 different diameters for 8, 10, 12 & 15mm teak inserts) ; note the reference marks on the slats and on the deck. make sure to apply slats symmetrically in relation to the elements of the deck (roof, companion, stanchion for instance...).
Drill in the pre-drilled holes with a bit (Ø0,3-0,4mm less than the screws diameter), then insert the screws.

     
   illustration 

 

4. Start with a small amount of epoxy to estimate your forward speed. Put down an edge, bond the deck, put the edge back together with well-tightened screws and repeat the process as often as necessary. Then, scrape up the excess of epoxy. Once again, make sure to estimate your forward speed according to FFE 200 (2h30 depending on ambient temperature).


5. Assemble your slats together by size and split them into two groups in order to apply them symmetrically to port and to starboard. Cut the slats to fit and mark them for reference as necessary. Bond the deck as one goes along with a 3mm serrated trowel with sharp teeth. If you using S4S slats, press firmly slats with space and bending block Fix Deck before tightening them completely and squeeze up a little epoxy between each slat. Allow the epoxy to cure thoroughly during 24 hours before removing clamps. Then, remove the excess of epoxy at the bottom of the coves with the TDS reefing hook (it is preferable between 8hours and 24hours) and stop up the old screw holes with epoxy. Using 2-rabbet slats insert teak plugs to mask off screws in the wood (in grain direction).


6. Sand between each slat with the TDS seam-sander and vacuum the seams in order to let them clean and dry with accetone before the application of the TDS bond breaker tape. Apply the bond breaker tape to the bottom of the seam before caulking. To make the caulk last, make sure it bonds only to the edge of the slat in order to avoid an additional bonding point at the bottom which could cut through it over time.


bond breaker tape

7. Caulk the seams with TDS SIS440 to the bottom of the seam. Primer is not necessary, it must be upward until crowning above the top of the seam with an combination spreader (warning : be sure that wood haven't water or moisture).


8. Sand the new deck after 7 days to black teak deck caulk SIS400 and 12 days to white and grey teak deck caulk SIS440 for equalizer the deck. To equalizer use a belt sander with medium grit and a disc sander and a flat seam sander for the finishing. The teak can be left natural or maintained regulary with ECO 300 and clean with ECO 100